这是介绍risotto(一种意大利米饭）的文章
RISOTTO
Its history and
how to make it perfect
How rice arrived in Italy is a controversial issue. It is known that the Arabs took rice to Sicily and Spain. They probably got it from India and extended its use through the territory under their control. Rice was brought into the Po Valley in the fourteenth century—probably from Spain—and found the perfect environment and climate: flat lands, abundance of water, and humidity. Cultivation of rice became intensive in the area for the centuries that followed, so much that rice became a staple in that part of Italy.
The legend of the invention of Risotto alla Milanese goes back to the year 1574. The Duomo di Milano, the magnificent Gothic cathedral, was being built, and a young apprentice by the name of Valerius was in charge of staining the decorated glass for the windows. Everybody was teasing him because he appeared to have added saffron to the pigments to obtain a more brilliant color.
Tired of the teasing, he decided to return the joke and added saffron to the rice to be served at his master's wedding. The rice turned out so good that the idea spread immediately throughout the city and became the popular dish we know today.
The technique for making risotto probably came from trying to cook the rice as a—puls (similar to porridge)—boiling it in milk, water, or broth until soft. In fact, a sort of rice porridge cooked in milk and sugar, rixo in bona manera (“rice in a good manner”), was documented in Venice since the fourteenth century.
Risotto is a very simple and nutritious dish, and easy to prepare. There are hundreds of types of Risotto, varying from the flavoring ingredient used; but in all the recipes you will need four basic components: soffritto (sautéed vegetables), broth, flavoring ingredients, and Italian rice.
The soffritto generally is a combination of vegetables, butter, oil, and finely diced onions, sautéed in a large skillet where rice will be cooked. However, sometimes a special recipe calls for different ingredients.
The broth, depending on the recipe, could be beef, chicken, vegetable, or fish. A good broth—homemade or canned—is the basis of a good risotto. To simplify the recipe, broth can be substituted with one or two bouillon cubes dissolved in warm water.
The flavoring ingredient is what will give the risotto dish its characteristic flavor. Generally it is added to the soffritto, and it can be anything from vegetables (such as mushrooms, spinach, or endive), to ragu', seafood, meat, truffles, saffron, or wine, to name some examples.
The Italian rice varieties all have large grains, are rich in starch, and have the capacity of absorbing a considerable amount of cooking liquid while still remaining firm. Three basic types of rice are common in Italy:
Arborio rice is the best-known variety and the Italian housewives' favorite, perhaps because its grain is very large. Arborio Rice is particularly suitable for risotto because it is easy to cook al dente without overcooking.
Vialone rice has a smaller grain and is very common in the Veneto area. Generally it is cooked all’onda (wavy), that is, consistent but still soft and not too dry.
Carnaroli is first-rate rice, cultivated mainly in the Piemonte area. It cooks uniformly without overcooking, has a very special taste, and mingles very well with condiments. Carnaroli will absorb a larger amount of liquid. It is particularly suitable for risotto and rice salad.
At the end, butter and parmigiano cheese generally are added to risotto to complete the dish. The final result is a consistent paste, with the individual rice grains still firm but sticking together due to the high content of starch. Risotto is generally very satisfying and can be served as a first course or as a main course standing on its own
Making a Perfect Risotto
Preparing a good risotto is very easy, but a few guidelines should be followed:
The rice must not be washed before cooking. Washing would eliminate a large part of the starch that gives the risotto its texture.
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Choose the most appropriate variety of rice for the recipe you will prepare: Carnaroli for a consistent risotto, Vialone for a risotto all’onda, Arborio for all the types of risotto.
Allow about 3–4 oz (75–100 gr) of rice for each serving.
Use a large double-bottom sauté pan to keep the heat uniform.
Gently fry the butter and the extra-virgin olive oil (½ tablespoon per person) without browning it.
Sauté the chopped onion on a low temperature, until translucent. Maximum of 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Do not cook too long or the rice grains could harden. In that case they would no longer cook homogeneously and they could loose their ability to absorb the condiments.
When the rice is toasted, dry white or red wine can be added if required by the recipe.
The secret to an excellent risotto is using a good homemade broth (see recipe at page 67). Keep the broth simmering all the time.
At this point, turn the heat to medium and add half of the indicated amount of broth to the rice.
Keep the heat at medium until the rice is fully cooked. spoon to prevent the risotto from sticking to the pan, and until the rice has absorbed all the broth.
When the rice is close to fully cooked, taste it for readiness—neither too hard nor too soft, but just al dente.
All Italian rices will cook al dente in about 18–20 minutes.
When the risotto is ready, remove the pan from the stove to avoid overcooking.
Stir into the risotto the butter and the freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, as required by the recipe.
Immediately pour the risotto into a warm serving dish, and wait 2-3 minutes before serving.