A change in accommodation
At the end of Mao's reign in 1979 there were just three tourist hotels in Beijing.Now there are over 325,and all of a good standard,so don't worry about the quality.The big hotels even offer 'in room' traditional Chinese massage,from about £25 an hour.
Beijing is the ideal base from which to visit the Great Wall of China at Mutianyu,an hour and a half away.The original sections were built some 2000 years ago to keep out marauding armies.Its size is staggering.The wall is almost 3000 miles long,and many people think it's the only man-made structure that can be seen from space - but this has been dispelled as a myth.And it can be peaceful too,especially if you visit in October as Craig did.One word of warning,the hawkers on the way up and down the wall are very persistent.
From the cultural capital of Beijing,Craig took a two hour flight to Shanghai,the commercial centre.
Shanghai is more Manhattan than you might expect:the spirit of entrepreneurialism is evident everywhere.It's hard to believe that it's only a matter of years since this was farmland.In the shadows of all the tower blocks,you'll find a China where life continues as it has for hundreds of years.
At the bird and flower market there's more than a few surprises,some of which you may not be entirely comfortable with,such as birds in tiny cages and caterpillars crawling out of their cocoons.
Make sure you know the name of your hotel in Chinese,and write a list of all the places you want to visit,then get them translated into English,as this will help you navigate the city.
By night,the contrast between the traditional and modern is even more breathtaking.Shanghai had a decadent reputation in the 1930s,and now the city has re-located its dancing shoes - from modern bars to traditional shows,Shanghai offers it all.
A further two hour flight,and Craig was in the rural town of Guilin.He floated down the Li river,soaking up the relaxing scenery.It's not entirely peaceful however,as the reality is that about a quarter of a million people a year now want to float down this river,and the Chinese are coping by introducing luxury viewing barges which you share with up to 150 others.
Lunch is provided on board,but it's worth remembering that there is very little choice on offer here if you don't like Chinese food.
The main produce of the area is rice,but during the evenings you can watch the somewhat unorthodox practice of cormorant fishing,and working displays are put on for tourists right in the centre of town.
Then,just after 7am,when Craig thought he'd seen everything,he came across a pavement full of ballroom-dancing pensioners...apparently a common practice,just because it's fun.